Sunday, December 20, 2015

Frightening Images…



These images should frighten any air traveller in Nigeria who is familiar with our recent aviation history. How I wish the images were actually photo-shopped or manipulated by mischief makers to make us laugh. Sadly, they look too real to be the work of some crazy prankster. And that is rather frightening.
After years of successive air crashes and the chilling aftermath, Nigeria had momentarily seemed to be making a clear break with the usual slapdash approach to safety in the aviation sector. Ironically, it took the severely vilified Stella Odua to give Nigeria what looked like the beginnings of a modern aviation industry. Under her watch, our airports took a new look. Things got slightly better under Osita Chidoka as we saw some serious moves to enforce safety regulations especially with the down-grading of Asaba Airport.

However, as these images show, we are on a backward slide. God save all air travellers this Yuletide!  

What does Christmas mean to them?

These are children in rural Nigeria in the Internet age...

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Christmas in Calabar: A Feast of Colours



Me and my Carnival Queen
Until I arrived Calabar on Monday, December 23, 2013, all the stories of enchantment and magic I had heard about Nigeria’s first capital city and her ample pleasures could be reduced to pictures of waif-like carnival queens with the silver wings of fairies.
But the picture soon began to change when Calabar’s long tree-lined streets opened up to receive me with the bewitching twinkle of assorted Christmas lights. As the car heaved up the long, straight road to State Housing, I blinked at the forceful dazzle of Calabar’s street lights when I remembered that my neighbourhood in Lagos had been plunged into darkness by a severe power cut for a whole week. I drew a long breath as I pondered Calabar’s night beauty, wondering if daylight would reveal her more familiar face.      

I woke up to the chirping of birds from the luxuriant branch of a tree by my hotel window and became instantly aware of where I was. I hadn’t been woken by a birdsong in long while. Jogging on the beautifully paved streets of State Housing, what struck me was the greenness of the surrounding as the sun poked its shy rays through the leafy canopy overhead. I was impressed by the cleanness of the neighbourhood and the cloying ambience of its vegetative streets. I loved the seemingly pristine orderliness which accentuated Calabar’s otherness.


The Government House Choir performing at the Millennium Park
On Christmas Eve, the Millennium Park burst wild in a spangle of colours. Amid the twittering chimes of assorted Christmas lights, a rainbow of voices sprouted with life on a huge stage to serenade the city and its many wonder-struck seasonal visitors with songs. It would seem that the Carol Night is probably the most subdued component of Calabar’s famed Christmas Carnival but even so, it has its own intricate allure. And I knew that my Christmas would be wonderful when the night exploded with songs at the Millennium Park as different Choirs competed amongst themselves for the best performance. I was awe-struck by the depth of talent on display from the Cross River State Choir. The Choir’s lead singer had a voice that would make the angels blink in bewilderment. But the real amazement was the performance of Governor Liyel Imoke and Obioma, his wife. The couple was among the Government House Choir which turned up delicately spruced up for the night. The singing contest was between the House of Assembly, the Local Governments and the Government House. I chuckled when I saw my friend Christian Ita, the Chief Press Secretary to the Governor, looking dapper in a tuxedo and grinning with a mischievous glint in his eyes. In all the years I had known him, I had never heard a hum from Chris. But Calabar’s many unspoken pleasures had softened him up and turned him into a singer.

It was pleasant to see Obioma Imoke singing lead while her husband’s booming voice floated atop a wave of voices into the night. The Choir sounded as though it had gone through moments of intense rehearsal and I wondered how Governor Imoke could have been a part of it with the tightness of his schedule. Interestingly, whatever sacrifices they made seemed to have paid off as their performance on the night was inch-perfect. I rose from the Carol Night wondering just how different Calabar was from the rest of Nigeria, how beautiful the choirs sang, how picturesque the stage looked and how these little things meant so much more than words could ever say. But I also rose from the performance with a heightened anticipation of the Carnival; the crown jewel of the Calabar Christmas Festival.


Approach to the Marina Resort
After a relatively quiet Christmas, I spent the Boxing Day at the scenic Marina Resort; a breath-taking hideaway that nestles at the mouth of the Calabar River. The resort is a canopy of colours; from the zig-zagging road that slopes all the way down to the river from the Eastern Naval Command and the ethereal beauties of the little Tortuga Island where I savoured the peppery taste of barbecued fish to the magnificent view of the glimmering Calabar River, I felt myself entranced in a beauty beyond the lame aspirations of polluted beaches of Lagos. And as I walked down the dimly lighted labyrinths of the Slave Museum, I felt history tug on the shirtsleeves of my mind. I chuckled when the curator, whose name I can no longer recall told the story of the famed slave dealer, King Eyo Honesty, the 18th Century monarch of Creek Town whom he said earned the name “Honesty” from his fair trade practices with the European slave masters. His voice hovered over us in the cavernous rooms of the museum like the vengeful spirit of one of the enslaved ancestors seeking supplication. The tour was as enlightening as it was saddening. 
 
Aspects of the Marina Resort
Stepping out of the Museum into the warm December sun once again, I stood by the railing and gazed into the vast expanse of the Calabar River which empties itself into the sea and wondered how many cruelties the waters of the River had witnessed without as much as a blink. I left when my eyes stung from gazing too hard and ambled my way back to an open field where children romped about in play, oblivious of the hideous stories that lay within the walls of the nearby museum. Although there was a cinema house close by, I had lost all interest as my mind kept dredging up images of the manacles and chains I saw in the museum.  Later that night, I heard the guttural voice of King Eyo Honesty welcoming me to his kingdom by the sea. He stretched out a bronze staff to touch me as he spoke and I screamed in absolute horror and woke up to realise that I had been dreaming and that it was the day I had waited for; the Carnival Day.


Pondering the deep secretes of the Calabar River
Leaving my hotel room at a quarter past nine, I headed to the take-off point of the Carnival train. I had been advised that the best thing to do was to get a spot very close to the take-off point and watch the street party fresh and then return to my hotel for a little rest before re-joining the party in the stadium at sunset. But no one warned me of the impending joy that came with witnessing Africa’s largest street party live. I took a spot opposite De Choice, a popular quick service restaurant and waited with my phones fully charged to take photographs of the impending spectacle. I didn’t have long to wait as the procession began a little after mid-day. Right before my eyes, I saw the streets of Calabar explode into a rainbow of colours. Young, nubile and picture-perfect ladies twinkled like sapphire in assorted costumes, flashing smiles that glowed like full moon. Old and graceful ladies glimmered in gears that made light of the passage of time. Athletic young dancers flexed their muscles and gave hints of complicated dance routines that would later flower into intricate chorography in the late night at the stadium. And the most pleasant thing of it all, the carnival trains all danced to the throbbing rhythms of soar away Nigerian music. A set of fleet-footed dancers performed an astonishing sequence to the tune of Kaycee’s hit song, Pull Over, and the spectators roared in applause. Above us, a military helicopter hovered, keeping an eye on the procession and providing rapid response in case of trouble.

Governor Liyel Imoke and wife, Obioma
I waited for my moment; the arrival of these other-worldly creatures that seemed perfect in all physical configuration and broke through the security cordon for a photo shoot. I encircled one of the finest of the lot and handed my phone to someone to take a photograph of me and my carnival queen. My queen smiled away as the camera flash exploded in a brilliant dazzle to trap time. I took in the moment, knowing there would never be a repeat, wondering if the ancestors of this nubile queen were shipped from the estuary of Calabar; wondering if King Eyo Honesty made a good profit from the sale. I smiled as my arm encircled her waist and I thought to myself, does this one even know or care whether we share the same bloodline?


A performance in the Stadium
The wild ecstasy on the streets was nothing to compare to the frenzy in the U. J Esuene Stadium later that night. The 25,000 capacity stadium was packed beyond capacity as the city of Calabar and environs emptied itself into the lush-green pitch of the stadium. It was the grand finale of Africa’s largest street party and no one wanted to be told the story of what happened. It was at this stage that the theme of the carnival “Ain’t no Stopping Us” would be interpreted in a dance after being conceptualized in the costumes and floats witnessed earlier on the streets. I felt a surge of pride when the former governor of the state, Donald Duke and his beautiful Onari floated into the stadium on a two-wheel scooter that looked very much like the ones used by visitors to the Whitehouse in Washington DC. The stadium throbbed with rapture as debonair Duke and delectable Onari floated like fairies around the stadium. The carnival trains soon moved in with fanfare. A major highpoint was the grand entry of ageless Florence Ita Giwa and her Seagul Band. The Nollywood crew of John Okafor, Nkem Owoh, Funke Akindele, Tonto Dike and model Uti Nwachukwu drew a loud applause with their theatrical display. All the carnival bands including Passion 4, Masta Blasta Band, Seagull Band, Freedom Band and Bayside Band gave a good account of themselves, interpreting the theme of the carnival. But the night however belonged to the Masta Blasta Band whose electrifying performance stripped the audience of all power of speech.

The frightening thing about Carnival Calabar is its growing acceptance beyond Nigeria and even outside Africa. Apart from Brazil, Ghana, Egypt and Trinidad and Tobago are all reported to have joined the fun. The list is expected to grow in the coming years as media attention grows on the carnival.

The astonishing thing though is that Calabar and its many revolutionary offerings is the only proof in Nigeria that government can run a project to a high level of excellence. In the words of Governor Liyel Imoke, the chief host of the carnival, “after Nollywood, Carnival Calabar is the highest brand in Africa and it is unique because unlike others, it is designed, programmed and costumed through passion and creativity.” Calabar is probably the only idea that any government in Nigeria has driven with unflagging passion for close to a decade.

It is indeed fascinating how through raw passion and unrivalled focus, the government of Cross River State has turned Calabar into one of the few bright spots in Nigeria’s story of gloom.  With a vast arable land that supports year-round green vegetation, a naturally warm and peace-loving people and an assortment of natural wonder-places and places of historical significance, Cross River seems carved out for distinction. Even so, it took a deep self-knowledge and a near revolutionary vision for Cross River to stand out among its peers in Nigeria if not Africa. I am told that work has commenced on the second phase of Tinapa which will see the erection of one of Africa’s largest conference centres.

Evidently, the minders of the idea of Calabar have not stopped dreaming while their contemporaries in most states of the federation are struggling to offer basic amenities to their people. American poet, Edgar Allan Poe once observed that “those who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night.” It would seem that the government and people of Cross River State have mastered the art of dreaming by day while their counterparts in other states of the federation are still busy dreaming at night.

 

Saturday, December 7, 2013

Nelson Mandela: Why the World will never forget


Picture the world, for a moment as a silent pond where God casts occasional pebbles to cause a ripple.  If Nelson Mandela were a pebble in God’s hands, what sort of ripple would you say he has caused?
At the Apartheid Museum in Jo,burg
This might sound simplistic, of course, but I am at a loss about how to wrap my mind around the magnitude of Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela; how to contemplate the very idea of Nelson Mandela.  What god sired him? What smithy forged his soul? Pardon my hyperbole but how else would one fully grasp the enormity of a man who single-handedly reshaped our world?
Most people around the globe are well acquainted with the Mandela story; a story of unspeakable courage and tenacity; of a will that is stronger than iron and a soul purer than gold. While it may be true that his royal background may have prepared him for leadership, it is common knowledge that a royal birth does not always translate to a nobility of character. The world is full of royal knaves. But Madiba was different. His autobiography, A Long Walk to Freedom, offers ample insight into his ancestry and the character strength of his father who bore his pain with dignity for speaking the truth and standing resolute to ensure that Jogintaba, the regent of Thembu, ascended the throne of his fathers. Mandela inherited his father’s cold resolve and capacity to endure pain. From the same book, we gleaned that Mandela became fascinated with chieftaincy and the church in equal measures but we are reminded of his humanity when we learn that even while living in the midst of surplus in the regent’s house, little Mandela stole maize from Rev. Matyolo and was punished. Ironically, great as the rest of his life was, it was never without faint reminders of his humanity.
Nelson Mandela arrested the attention of the world when he showed the iron will he inherited from his father, Gadla Henry Mphakanqiswa by surviving the inhuman conditions in the Robben Island jail for 27 long years. In so doing, he shattered racial stereotypes on the inferiority of the black race; our trumpeted emotionalism and our so-called love of pleasure. Madiba was to burst more stereotypes when he wilfully handed over power to his successor, Thabo Mbeki, at a time when he could easily have done a Mugabe and held on to the office for life and no one with any sense of justice would have blamed him.
Madiba made life more difficult for racial profilers when he rose above the usual cut of mortals to bestow forgiveness on the promoters of Apartheid and lay a solid foundation for a rainbow nation. Through his understanding and bestowal of forgiveness on the people who persecuted him, Madiba redefined our world and created a new attitude to race relations. He reminded us that sometimes the greatest strength may be found in what might considered the greatest act of vulnerability. Through his many remarkable feats, he firmly hoisted himself across the various chasms that separate our world and became a part of everything good.   
Until his death in the evening of December 5, 2013, Nelson Mandela’s life could be considered as one of absolute grace. He rose from so many years of astonishing uprightness to become the conscience of the moral world. He was so outstanding that there is no human being in living memory that could be compared to Nelson Mandela. He lived among the gods; his trademark sunny smile was like an island of peace in a world riddled with strife and back home, he was the sinew that held the various colours of his rainbow nation together in one piece.
But our world resents absolutism. And not even Mandela is ripe enough for such honours. The voices against him may not be many but they are strident enough to deserve attention. There are people who blame him for focusing so much on political power that he failed to get a good economic deal for black South Africans. Such people often forget that as at the time, Mandela and his generation were overwhelmed by the brutal way the Apartheid regime wielded political power. Economic power is potent but non-threatening. Besides, if Mandela had wished to do a Mugabe, he would have done that quite easily and the world would have applauded him under the political climate of the time. But would it have set the moral tone for the rest of humanity as his restraint did? It’s doubtful.  Zimbabwe’s scandalous condition today is proof that Mandela was a better thinker by the distance. Those who criticize his personal failings and failed marriages must have closed their eyes to the price of being Nelson Mandela or the fact that those flaws and errors of judgment actually humanize him. It is always easy to judge a man from a distance. 
In Mandela's Living Room in Soweto
My first visit to the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg made me realize what it meant to live in Apartheid South Africa but less so what it took to be a Nelson Mandela. My subsequent visit to his Soweto home did all that to me. When I stood in his tiny living room and raised a clenched fist in Amandla salute beside a big portrait of him, when I strolled into his bedroom and beheld the narrow bed he shared with Winnie in the turbulent years of the struggle, I wondered how any man in such condition could have believed himself.
As I wandered around the quaint, little compound and read sign after sign on the walls, I marvelled at God’s infinite wisdom to have raised a shepherd boy in the remote village of Qunu to shepherd the majority blacks of South Africa out of the cruelties of man’s inhumanity to his kind into the brilliant dazzles of the rainbow. I nodded to myself for the only symbolic thing I have ever done to honour him - the naming of my four-year old son, Madiba, after the great one. And now, I feel content when he my little Madiba does little things that echo his namesake. Like when I came home from work one day and hugged my wife and children and left out my house girl and he looked up pained and insisted that I hugged her; like when he insists that no one leaves the house until we were already to go out anytime the family is going to church or on a day out. Of course, my son is not Nelson Mandela but those little acts lift me up.
And while the world may never see another Mandela, it just might be that the world has made a tremendous leap from the moral universe that created him. And the more I think of it, the more I feel content about one thing - God made me a member of a race whose humanity the world loves to deny, but God made the world accept my humanity when he made Nelson Mandela a member of my race.

Adieu Madiba!

 

Saturday, October 5, 2013

Anambra 2013: Obiano and the Symbolism of Ojukwu’s Legacy




Chief Willie Obiano
There are many reasons why observers of the intense political activities leading to the November 16, 2013 gubernatorial election in Anambra State believe that Chief Willie Obiano will win the race. Some of the reasons are easy to see. But some are intricately embedded in the intriguing world of symbols.

What is easy for all to see is that the APGA standard bearer is the most outstanding of the crop of candidates jostling for Governor Peter Obi’s job.  Obiano, a CKS Onitsha old boy and UNILAG MBA comes with a blend of professional experience and international exposure that gives hope that finally, Nigeria may begin to have political round pegs in round holes. Obiano’s career profile is the stuff of high achievers. After working with one of the oil majors; Texaco Nigeria plc, for over 9 years during which he rose to the post of Chief Auditor with supervisory powers on the company’s internal processes in Nigeria and overseas, Obiano berthed at Fidelity Bank Plc where he had a meteoric rise to the position of the Executive Director, Business Banking. In that capacity, Obiano deployed his enormous knowledge of financial engineering to ensure that the bank had a steady rise from a mid-level enterprise into one of the best run financial institutions in Nigeria today. Obiano’s technical depth found resonance with Reginald Ihejiahi’s cerebral approach to banking and in no time, Fidelity had swallowed two big banks; FSB International Bank and Manny Bank to emerge a formidable financial power house from the last banking consolidation.

In a country where many celebrated bankers have fallen by the wayside for gross professional misconduct and crimes bordering on public trust, Obiano stands out once again for retiring from a glorious banking career with an unblemished record. People who knew his time at Fidelity remember him as the quintessential manager who effectively combined the carrot and the stick approach to management to astonishing results. Beyond that, the sheer force of his personality ensured that anyone who worked under him drew a natural inspiration from him. He is charismatic, stylish and humorous with a razor-sharp intellect to boot. It was these qualities that drew the young Turks in the bank to him and made him the life of the party during AGM dinners and other milestone celebrations of the bank. Indeed, Obiano’s background is fascinating and inspiring as his victory in the coming polls will ensure that peter Obi’s years of laying a solid backbone for the rapid development of Anambra State will not be washed away by the corrosive touch of candidates of questionable pedigree.

For anyone with a modicum of discernment, it is difficult to miss the first symbolism of Obiano’s involvement in the Anambra gubernatorial race – the right people are finally joining the political fray in Nigeria. Hitherto, Nigerian politics has been the typically absurd theatre where only men with tainted profiles and a confirmed absence of scruples held sway. Anambra particularly has had an unfair share of political brigands and underworld characters that held the state prostate for years, diverting public funds to their private use while the institutions of governance went to seed. The state made headlines for the wrong reasons including the kidnap and disappearance of a sitting governor as well as the widely reported fetishist oat taking by political desperados who wanted to grab power by any means necessary.
That thoroughbred professionals like Obiano are filing out today for the Anambra gubernatorial race is an indication that Anambra may finally be headed to that bend in the river where its most accomplished citizens are no longer turned off by the rough and shadowy men that have defined Anambra politics in recent times. It is also attributable to the shining example set by Governor Peter Obi whose heroic struggles to reclaim his stolen mandate from Chris Ngige has been fully validated by the enormous legacy he will leave behind when he exits office in the next few months. For most Anambrarians, Obi’s legacy is so monumental that the greatest challenge the state faces at the moment is to find a suitable candidate that will preserve and expand it. Happily, many people believe that Obiano’s emergence as APGA’s flag bearer represents the best hope for the survival of this legacy.


Interestingly, beyond the symbolism of a break from the belief that politics is reserved for thugs and the blood-thirsty amongst us lies another symbolism – the symbolism of Ojukwu’s place in Igbo memory and its political leadership. It is a known fact that no political leader in the last half century has embedded himself in Igbo memory quite as completely as the late Ikemba Nnewi, Chukwuemeka Odumegwu Ojukwu. Interestingly, with his passage and burial last year, it became even clearer that Ojukwu was more than an Igbo hero. Ndigbo know that Ojukwu’s twilight years were spent envisioning a future for them and constructing a roadmap to Igbo renaissance within the larger Nigerian family.

The All Progressives Grand Alliance (APGA) was a major part of Ojukwu’s grand plan to give Ndigbo a metaphorical political roof to shield them from the torrential rainfall of Nigerian misgovernance. He fought tooth and nail to establish the party and ensure that it took roots in the 5 states of the South East, arguing that in time, it would become a bargaining weapon with which Ndigbo would negotiate their way through the nebulous theatre of Nigerian leadership. In fact, Ojukwu is reported to have thrown his enormous influence behind the party and had even implored Ndi Anambra to grant his final wish by voting Governor Peter Obi into office for the second term.

His people granted him his wish and Obi triumphed at the polls. But Obi has also validated Ojukwu’s confidence with a 5-Star performance. So, it is easy to see that among the many issues that will swing voters’ sympathies in the coming election is the symbolism of Ojukwu’s legacy and his ideals. An APGA loss at the polls in November, barely one year after Ojukwu’s heroic burial, will cast Ndi Anambra in the mould of a people without memory. And in today’s world as in worlds before, a people without memory are doomed. In the words of Marcus Tullius Cicero, Roman philosopher, politician, lawyer, orator and political theorist, “memory is the treasury and guardian of all things.” And being a society of highly enlightened people, Ndi Anambra will certainly vote with a strong memory of their hero.

Another symbolism is also the symbolism of the party APGA as the only standing political structure that Ndigbo can lay claim to in Nigeria as their own. Some Igbo people would quickly point at ACN now turned APC as a Yoruba party and the ANPP as the Hausa-Fulani party while APGA is for the Igbo. There is this sense of ownership that APGA represents to them.  It would amount to political suicide for Ndi Anambra to allow the political parties of rival ethnic groups therefore to provide leadership in the state.

As it were, Anambra is the only surviving turf for APGA and the only reason it still exists. Governor Peter Obi has proven that a thoroughly prepared leader can leave a resounding legacy even as a member of a minority party. Willie Obiano’s emergence as the APGA candidate has re-assured Ndi Anambra that there will be continuity in competent leadership and vision after Obi. When all these symbolisms are considered, it is hard not to see that Chief Willie Obiano is simply waiting to take over from Governor Peter Obi as the next governor of Anambra State.  

 

 

 

Monday, September 9, 2013

We Need New Names: Bulawayo’s Love Song for Zimbabwe




There are some writers for whom storytelling seems almost effortless. NoViolet Bulawayo is one of them. We first encountered her in her Caine Prize winning short story, Hitting Budapest, an amazing tale of dispossession and longing, told through the eyes of six Zimbabwean children brought together by internal dislocation and grinding poverty. In We Need New Names, Bulawayo continues this narrative with loads of ironies and startling craftsmanship.  

 In more than one way, Bulawayo’s book is reminiscent of the Lord of the Flies, a dystopian novel by William Golding, about a band of British boys who found themselves marooned on a desolate island and tried to run their affairs with disastrous consequences. Indeed there is something Goldingsque about this book. Not only in the use of child characters but in the development of these characters. In Bastard, we find echoes of Jack Merridew of Lord of the Flies who is intensely driven by his love of power and control. There are also occasions when we hear the voice of Golding’s Piggy in Bulawayo’s Godknows. However, while Golding’s book is a profound allegory on the death of innocence and the darkness of a man’s heart, Bulawayo leads us into the complexities of internal and external dislocations and the question of identity and belonging.

We Need New Names is a story of two parts. The first part captures life in a country that is falling apart; the pervading bleakness, the violent protests, hunger and death and the mass exodus to safer places. Part two chronicles the suspended lives of the exile; cast adrift in the cruel interplay of fate and mistake, they inhabit the nebulous margins of our world, belonging everywhere and nowhere.
 
With a narrative voice that rings loud with laughter, We Need New Names paints a lush picture of the two worlds that sit side by side in Zimbabwe. The world of the rich and comfortable white folk in Budapest and the wretched universe of black Zimbabweans in a settlement of shacks, ironically named Paradise. Yanked off their once comfortable homes and away from the nurture of schools, the narrator, Darling and her five friends; Chipo, Sbho, Godknows, Stina and Bastard roam the sun-scorched streets of Paradise. They live by the hour, scrounging for food and guavas to quell the rumble of hunger in their stomachs. Guava can be loosely seen here as a paradox – it can douse the fire in the stomach but it can also cause constipation if taken too much. A dilemma is subtly suggested here – to eat or not to eat? This also foreshadows one of the themes of the story; is exile a wise choice for citizens of crumbling societies?

The hungry children hit Budapest again and again and ironically remain the only link between these two close communities that are forced apart by the gulf of possession. Darling, the narrator’s child voice guides us into the tumultuous life in Paradise; so named for the reason of its being the exact opposite of what its name suggests. Through her omnipresent eyes, we encounter quaint characters with outlandish names like Mother of Bones, Mother Love, Forgiveness, MaMoyo, Freeborn, Vasco da Gama, and perhaps the most colourful of them all, Tshaka Zulu and Prophet Revelations Bitchington Mborro.

Bulawayo’s fiction is a story of innocence. But it is also a story of loss. In a piquant child voice, Darling tells us of the crumbling walls of Zimbabwe; of fathers deserting their families for neighbouring countries and of HIV/AIDS spreading like a bushfire in the broken communities. After years of waiting for her runaway husband, Darling’s mother welcomes another man into the pleasures of her bedroom.  A faint reminder that more often than not, when things begin to fall apart, the family, which is the center of society never really holds. Bulawayo captures the nightly visits of the lover in a most lucid prose – “Now mother is moaning; the man, he is panting. The bed is shuffling like a train taking them somewhere important that needs to be reached fast.” We see the picture of total dysfunction in Darling’s playmate, Chipo, a ten-year old, pregnant for her grandfather and in false prophets like Prophet Revelations Bitchington Mborro who assert themselves in the community; offering voodoo solutions for purely economic maladies. For this brood of social renegades, Bulawayo deploys a caustic tongue in her description – “the evangelists and Prophet Revelations Bitchington Mborro arrive after everybody, like chief baboons…” (page 32). Their comical appearance and exaggerated piety all hint on the falsehood that swaddles a fallen society - things are not always what they seem. But these characters are also veritable sources of humour which Bulawayo mines to hilarious effect. We see a bit of this when Darling’s father returns from South Africa, a living skeleton, stricken with HIV/AIDS. Prophet Bitchington arrives with a religious flourish and begins to cast out the grandfather’s spirit, which he claimed was the cause of the ailment.  Then, he goes on to name his fee in dollars and two fat virgin goats. On hearing this, Darling’s mum boils out of their shack, slamming the door hard behind her. “God also told me that the wife is possessed too, by three demons. One causes her to be unhappy all the time, one is the spirit of the dog, and the last one gives her a bad temper, rendering her a dangerous woman. But now we have to deal with the husband,” Bitchington intones in a solemn prophetic voice, drawing instant laughter from the reader.

We Need New Names is layered with meaning. Sometimes, weighty issues are given a most subtle treatment. Godknows startles the reader when he says “China is a red devil looking for people to eat so it can grow fat and strong.” But this is a seemingly innocent child-talk that casts a hard look at the spread of Chinese influence across the world but especially Africa where most construction jobs are easily snapped up by Chinese firms. Similarly, Bulawayo deftly deploys the “Country-game” played by the children to devastating, satirical effects. In the game, the players fight to assume the names of prosperous countries like the USA, Canada and Britain. And then she tells us that “Nobody wants to be rags of countries like Congo, like Somalia, like Iraq, like Sudan, like Haiti, like Sri Lanka and not even this one we live in – who wants to be a terrible place of hunger and things falling apart?” The narrator also nicely foreshadows the turn of events in part two of the story with Darling emerging the winner of the fight to assume the persona of USA in the game. Darling would eventually relocate to USA to live with Aunt Fostalina.  

The first part of We Need New Names ends with the death of Bornfree Lizwe Tapera. His passage hangs over the dying community like a lunar eclipse. Before that, we see a mob sweep through Budapest like an angry hurricane, dislocating comfortable white folks in their sheltered world and leaving the provocative sign - Black Power in caking feces on the wall.  Darling, soon leaves for the US to live with aunt Fostalina in Detroit, Michigan. And then begins a new vista of hope and despair. She discovers to her chagrin that America is not the perfect picture of her dream. This sudden realization is captured in a single striking line – “no matter how green the maize looks in America, it is not real.” She finds out that her Auntie Fostalina’s life is far from perfect; that she scraps a living by working multiple jobs and lives with Uncle Kojo; a man who has spent many years in America without becoming a permanent resident, who is nostalgic about his native Ghana, and has become an emotional captive in cold America. We are also made to realize that there are two types of hunger; one for food and the other for belongingness, for identity and both are just as important. Again, Bulawayo captures this masterfully  – “there are times, though, that no matter how much food I eat, I find that food does nothing for me, like I am hungry for my country and nothing is going to fix it.”

Things soon take a humorous turn as we encounter Tshaka Zulu in America. Zulu is perhaps one of the most admirable characters in the book. Against the wishes of his father, Zulu sells the old man’s cows to finance a flawed dream of abundance in America. Pressed against the hard realities of America, Zulu’s dream turns to nightmare and cost him his mind. Zulu represents the hordes of dream-chasing immigrants who are stranded in America with no hope of either returning to their roots or becoming fully accepted in their adopted country. But Zulu never truly arrived America; trapped in the interstices of home and exile, Tshaka becomes a metaphor for belonging. He is quick to brandish his shield and shout greetings into space in his native tongue. Bulawayo captures this perplexity of migration and adaptation in the following lines – “we could not use our languages, and so when we spoke our voices came out bruised. When we talked, our tongues thrashed madly in our mouths and staggered like drunken men… In America, we did not always have the words. When we are alone we summoned the horses of our languages and mounted their backs and galloped past skyscappers.”

 Bulawayo’s lyrical prose is in itself a fascinating discovery. Joyous sentences dance to rhythmic royal African drums on every page as every line sparkles with life. We come across gems -   “When you look into their faces, it is like something that was in there got up and gathered its things and walked away.” We also read - “Look at that drum of a stomach, it’s like he has swallowed a country,” lines that make you want to leap up and punch the sky.

The narrator’s voice acquires a new stridency as Darling begins to adjust to her new home in America.  She makes new friends in Kristal and Marina and begins to acquire American accent. Laughter lurks behind the narrative voice as Darling and her new friends discover the magic world of sex from the computer screen in the basement of her new home. But even so, she is never truly weaned of her longing for home. Déjà vu soon strikes again all around her as Tshaka Zulu finally goes down in a blaze and Uncle Kojo loses his mind, pinning away from his only son’s departure to Afghanistan as a combatant in the US Army. Darling returns home  from work one day to catch Aunt Fostalina with another man in the house while Uncle Kojo sits listless in the living room, gazing blindly at the images of fighting soldiers on a TV screen. What flashes across the reader’s mind here is the image of Darling’s mum, welcoming a lover into her bedroom at night with her father away in South Africa.

Darling’s longing for home begins all over again and she pulls up her Mac for a Skype session with her mother but instead, Chipo, her childhood friend picks the call. In the ensuing exchange, Darling learns of what has happened to her group of six friends. But she also gets to know that in fleeing crumbling Zimbabwe, she has lost whatever right she had to sit in judgment over those that preside over her affairs. This, to my mind, is a piquant rebuke of African exiles that are quick to hurl stones at blundering leaders back home in whose hands the flower of Africa’s promise at Independence has long wilted. Bulawayo delivers this rebuke in the voice of her most unlikely characters – Chipo. “It is the wound that knows the texture of the pain; it is us who stayed here feeling the suffering so it is us who have a right to even say anything…why did you run off to America, Darling Nonkululeko Nkala, huh? If it is your country, you have to love it to live in it and not leave it. You have to fight for it to make it right. Do you abandon your house because it is burning or do you find water to put the fire out?”

Without a doubt, NoViolet Bulawayo has had an auspicious beginning in her writing career, but this may well be her best offering ever. Of course there are flaws in We Need New Names. Certain things seem a bit overlaid in the book. For instance, while incest is common in every society, the likelihood of a grandfather impregnating his ten-year old granddaughter is farfetched in most parts of Africa. Again, the theme of poverty and hunger also seems over-stretched.  But these are minor flaws that round off a thoroughly realized narrative.

In all, We Need New Names is a song of enchantment capturing the dilemma of identity, dislocation and belongingness. But it is also a sad love song for the bedraggled motherland whose children are scattered across the face of the earth, belonging everywhere and nowhere.

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Douglas Ude: Of Meteors and their Ephemeral Sparkles

Tribute


Big Doug
Until he fell to police bullets on Thursday July 4, 2013, Douglas Akachukwu Ude was what you would call a Renaissance man. He had wide ranging interests covering writing and painting, music and other art forms. But this description does very little to capture the effervescence of Douglas Ude.

I had no inkling what lay before me when I walked into his office that balmy October evening, seven years ago. I had gone through all the stages of the interview that took me to Fidelity Bank and Douglas was the last man in a long hierarchy of officers who would decide my suitability for the position or otherwise. He struck me as a fairly large man with expansive ways and when his eyes lit up in response to my greeting, I was immediately startled by what seemed like a large sluice of goodness in him that I was certain would announce itself in time. I didn’t have long to wait to know just how right I was.

When I finally resumed at the Marketing Communications department of the bank, I met a team of bright young men and a woman, who were not only brilliant on their jobs but had a remarkable sense of humour. Among them were Kelechi Ogbamgba who often wore the inquisitorial look of one who wished to ask life a few difficult questions, Kelechi Eulwa who never seemed to run out of entrepreneurial ideas and Idris Salihu who combined exquisite tastes perfectly with disarming gentility. There was also Ronke Aina-Scott; the painter and visualizer - the only lady in the team and Rotimi Mathews who in Doug’s words was the Asiwaju of visas, being the bank’s protocol officer. In Emma Esinnah, our Group Head, we had an extremely wise and brilliant man with as much charm as amazing self-discipline.  Then, there was Douglas Ude. Big Doug! Douglas was big; physically and mentally. He used both well. His enormous size always arrested the attention of his environment while his impressive intellect burned deep impressions of his whirlwind personality on people who encountered him. He was humorous in a way that, perhaps only he could possibly be. We had an exciting team. Everyone had something to drop on the table, as it were.

I met a crop of excellent talents in the team; people who were accommodating, loving and supportive. It took me no time at all to come into the team’s heritage of humour. The team worked hard and played hard. We never lacked laughter at any moment in time. Between Emma and Doug, we had an amazing fountain of humour from where laughter sprouted without ceasing. Big Doug could tell a story with a perfect mimicry of the voices of all the characters in the tale and leave his audience bending over with laughter. No one was ever sufficiently prepared for his jokes. It always took you by surprise. You could tell that it was Friday when the door to the office swung open and the first thing to hit you was the metallic blast of the instrumental version of Bruce Hornsby’s’ That’s Just the Way it is; a song that the rapper 2Pac pressed his enormous genius upon to squeeze out the massive hip-hop hit of the same title.  Doug was always in the office before anyone else and more often than not, he was already perched behind his desk at 6 o’clock in the morning playing classic songs. Most days though, you would step into the office to the clicking sound of his keyboard as he hammered out mails after mails. A lot of times, these mails flooded our mailboxes before breakfast was over. He had so much passion for his work; so many ideas to share on almost anything; from the latest marketing strategies to the foundational theories in communication to football and boxing history. It was evident that he was the living spring of the team, although much of what we had then trickled down from the sagely leadership provided by the Managing Director and Chief executive Officer of the bank, Reginald Ihejiahi. Often referred to as the “intellectual in the banking hall,” Ihejiahi had largely succeeded in creating an atmosphere that made knowledge something to covet and display in Fidelity Bank. Through the bank’s weekly lecture series and the numerous offshore training opportunities for staff as well as the sponsorship of the famous international creative writing workshop series, the employees were drip-fed the notion that knowledge was a beautiful bride worth wooing and possessing. It was this atmosphere that fuelled the flowering of ideas and expressions that were to later coalesce into the larger culture that has become the distinguishing feature of the bank. Even so, there was something unusual about the marketing communications team of that period; something that felt like an extra-ordinary kindred spirit or something close to it. And looking back now through the misty layers of time, it all seems incredible how fate had melded that team together, almost on a whim.             

It has to be said of Douglas Ude that his peculiar charisma was essentially transcendental. It had this remarkable quality of exulting in itself and feeding on its own strength. If you saw him sweeping along the corridor like a cyclone, flashing a sparkling and almost ethereal smile at everyone, including drivers and cleaners, you would almost conclude that he belonged with the downtrodden. His humane touch was such that his act of kindness to the driver of our pool-car at the time, Johnson Otti, moved the fellow to name his son Douglas. Yet, Doug was so intellectually deep that he fittingly belonged with the best in the business of introspection. I had often heckled him to put down his thoughts in a more permanent form as his writings were so provocatively rich and engaging that I often wondered if he wouldn’t have been more useful to humanity outside the banking hall.

I was to  encounter his deep intellectual side fully when he joined Revolution Now, a Blackberry Messenger group of some feisty and engaging Nigerian professionals at home and in the Diaspora to which I and a couple of friends belong. Doug’s entry into the group brought a new scholarly steam to our conversations as he infused his comments with zany humour that had everyone reeling with laughter while absorbing some new paradigms. He wrote in the manner he spoke, clipped and cadenced and striking. In the opening paragraph of his tribute to Aluu Four, Doug wrote - “Who would have thought it, that deep within the serene green canopied woods that blanket the Choba campus of UNIPORT; such a macabre, grisly ritual would unravel before us; that in an ivory tower of learning, we would find the heart of darkness.”  Indeed Doug loved words and knew just what to do with them. If there was a new word in town, you were most likely to hear it first from Douglas Ude. There were times, though,  when his writing took a prescient tone; like the piece he wrote on the intriguing resentment of his first son of the arrival of his little brother – “Suddenly, there’s another guy in his woman’s life – he’s no longer the only dog in the manger… How shaky the foundations ‘pon which we build: - that there will be a tomorrow in which we remain relevant; that our dreams will persist; that our loved ones remain immune to sudden violence from a total stranger; that this flawed entity called Nigeria will endure…? We will learn, as my son Ikem surely has, that in this life, even surrounded by love, there are just no guarantees… “ I came across those haunting lines with a sense of foreboding. Was there a split moment; a little crackle in eternity when Douglas Ude had a glimpse of what lay ahead of him?

I am not one for superstition or premonition but when I also listened to the officiating priest at Doug’s Service of Songs the other night recall that he actually ran into the armed robbers in whose hands he lost his life after making a wrong turn on the road that fateful night, I felt something stir inside of me. Could it be fate? Somebody tell me it is. That is the only way Doug’s mid-day exit would make sense to me.

But how did we lose a man like Douglas Ude? Interestingly, there are two accounts of how it happened. One account says that he took his wife, Chioma out on a movie date and was coming back in the late night when he drove straight into the armed robbers at Jibowu, Lagos. Another version of the story claims that he and his wife had gone to the popular Jibowu bus station to pick up a visiting relative. Both accounts are correct. A close source informed me that Doug and his wife had gone to pick up a visiting relative at Jibowu. Halfway through the journey, the relative had called to inform them that the arrival in Jibowu would be delayed by some hours on account of a terrible traffic build up on the way. Consequently, since they were already out of their home, Doug and Chioma decided to head to the cinemas and spend those hours watching a movie. When the movie ended, they drove to Jibowu not knowing that they had just had their last beautiful moment as a couple. They met armed robbers on the way and were promptly taken hostage in their own car by the robbers who went on an ill-fated shake-down of the city. It wasn’t long before they ran into the police and Doug was hit in the ensuing crossfire by three bullets that homed in on his abdomen and diaphragm. The robbers escaped from the scene and dumped them on the way. Doug survived a surgery and lived all of four days before he gave up the fight on the tarmac of the Murtala Muhammed International Airport in Lagos when he was being wheeled into an air ambulance to be flown overseas for a better medical attention. Some people have argued that a man who took three bullets and hung on to life for four days should not have died. That may be true; so long as we rule fate out of the equation.  

Until he drew his last breath, Douglas Ude was one of those people whose mere appearance gave life a specter of certainty; you felt justified to mock death by drawing strength from sheer force of his presence. It was difficult to associate him with physical weakness of any type. He was very hard to ignore. I remember how he stepped into the closing ceremony of the 2008 edition of Fidelity’s International Creative Writing Workshop and swiftly “kidnapped” the show. I was gradually bringing the event to an end as the compere when I asked Doug to give a vote of thanks. He stood on the stage and loomed over the audience like the statue of a Buddha over a desolate landscape. “Ladies and gentlemen,” he said in a high-pitched voice, “you have done so well that I think you all deserve a locomotive clap. This is how we shall do it. You watch me. If I raise my right hand, you clap. If raise the left, you clap again. The more often I raise them, the more you clap. Oya, let’s go!” With that he raised his hand once and the audience responded with a thunderous clap. He raised the second and they responded. And when he increased the speed with which he raised his hands, the regularity of the clap produced a chugging rumble that sounded very much like an old locomotive engine wheezing and puffing down a creaky old track. When he finally raised his hand to bring the human locomotive to a halt, the hall erupted in euphoria. While the crowd exited the hall, it was clear to all that Doug’s locomotive clap would stand out in their memory of the evening.

Ironically too, when I looked at the crowd that gathered at Doug’s wake the other night, I shook my head in sudden realization that even in death, Douglas Ude had continued to draw people to himself. For a flitting moment, I wondered what thunderous sound would arise from the hall had the officiating priest suddenly stopped and asked the crowd to do a locomotive clap for Big Doug. His painful exit has indeed made the world a poorer place.

As I stretch my mind across the years that I have known Douglas Ude, a central image dominates the universe of my thoughts – the image of a shooting star, blazing across the evening sky, releasing a burst of glorious sparkles that fade into the distance after their job of lighting up the horizon is done. The remains of the Big Doug will be interred tomorrow, July 26, 2013, in his home town of Mgbowo in Augwu, Enugu State. Farewell Dude!